Kayak Surfing At Llangennith

In my early days of kayaking, through the 90's, I took a lot of trips to Llangennith in South Wales.

It's a village just off an epic curved beach on the Gower Peninsula. Beyond the village towards the beach is Hill End campsite. A 'must stay' site for surfers - board and kayakers - as it's within walking distance of the sea.

It was a basic site with a toilet block and just within walking distance of the local pub.

Our trips consisted of weekends and week long trips holed up at the campsite across most months of the year.

I fondly remember these trips. I met lots of great people and surfed some of the biggest surf I have every surfed.

Ready for surfing in my Acrobat this time

I was mainly paddling a Perception Dancer. A three and a half metre white water kayak designed more for river running than surf. But - and here's why I loved this kayak - it surfed like a dream. It's upturned nose meant that big waves were possible and it's flat hull and rounded rocker gave confidence when racing in on a wave.

The length and weight of the kayak meant I could paddle out past the break on all but the biggest surf. Getting past the break was nirvana. Just sitting in the swell - rising and falling with each wave was magical. Looking out to sea and seeing the tell-tale 'white horse' of the crest of a mighty wave was sobering and it gives me goose bumps even now.

As I watched the wave pick up height and speed, I would turn the Dancer to point shoreward. The wave closed in and I felt the kayak lift as I paddled hard. Sometimes I'd be almost vertical before the kayak would 'fall' down the wave and be projected forwards. The speed and the power of the sea was demonstrated to me.

Catching the wave. Paddler: Julian Patrick

The wave would be a joy to surf - until it broke. The thunder of the white water was intense, loud and would often engulf the kayak and me with it. Flung around like a rag doll until the wave subsided enough for me to regain control.

Sometimes upside down and a roll would follow. Every time I was able to roll back up. Maybe after a couple of roll attempts, but always I succeeded. In this kind of surf and wave size, a 'never fail' roll is essential.

It often felt like the sea was toying with me. The surf would grow to a point where it pushed the kayak and I to the absolute limit. I physically could not handle any more. The effort required to paddle out safely, wait and run back in was very tiring and required an immense amount of concentration and skill.

Waves would arrive that initially looked like monsters. No way would I be able to catch that and surf in. But then, almost like it was meant to be, the wave would form nicely and present an epic surf run in. My smile could be seen from Swansea I think.

When the big waves came, the hardest part was getting on to the wave. I remember several times that the wave face was more than twice the length of the kayak. The steepness pitched the nose clearly into the water and sent the kayak and I end over end down the wave. The wave would break and pummel everything in its path - me included.

There were other paddlers and surfers out too usually during the summer months. Other times, it would be my two fellow paddlers and I. We paddled every day for a week during early November and never saw another person on or in the water.

During the year, we would try and paddle the best tides - regardless of when this was. Sometimes we would be getting on the sea at 8pm or waking early and being on the water for first light - as early as 4am.

Paddling by moonlight was majestic and I did enjoy it.

After an early paddle, we took great pleasure in walking back to the campsite for breakfast and telling anyone who would listen that they had already missed the tide!

The wave about to break!

A common characteristic of most surf beaches is the wind. Great surf usually meant lots of wind. Being pelted by sea spray for hours at a time was no fun. And the long walk back up the beach to the campsite sapped every ounce of energy from you.

You could spot a newbie paddler a mile off. They would walk down the boardwalk carrying kayak and paddle. Step down onto the sand and lower the kayak and paddle to the ground - ready to catch a quick rest. The wind had other ideas.

It would whip up and take the paddle and send it spiralling off down the sand. The newbie would follow unsure whether to leave the kayak or take it with them. We would encourage them by shouting 'get a wriggle on or your paddle will be in Devon by 4pm!'.

Kayak surfing is great fun and really develops your kayak skills - your roll especially! Nothing beats the feeling of surfing in on your perfect wave. It makes me smile just thinking about it.

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